In the cellar – Secateurs Red
SECATEURS RED, A.A. BADENHORST FAMILY WINES, SWARTLAND, SOUTH AFRICA 2013
One often hears wine merchants saying that winemakers like to let the wines speak for themselves. Well, Adi?s wines would be lucky to get a word in edgeways. He is a fast-talking, quick-witted, warm-hearted kind of guy; a blend of one half talent, one half intuition and one half rock star. Like our understanding of fractions, Adi?s grasp on the precise technical specifications of his wines is not his strong point, but his aim is not perfection but personality. He may not be able to quote tartaric acid levels on request, but he is on first name terms with each of his vines. If you want to drink wines with soul that were made using gut feel rather than technical recipes, then this is definitely where you should be focusing your attention.
Today, Swartland is buzzing like California during the Gold Rush, except the lure is grapes not gold. Its fabulously old bush vines are attracting the country?s most pioneering winemakers, who have been drawn to the rich variety of organically-farmed, low-yielding vines – a legacy from the early settlers in the region. Fantastic, but previously neglected, old vineyards are being brought back to life by winemakers, such as Adi, Eben Sadie, Chris Mullineux and Marc Kent.
Of all the wines that Adi produces, the Secateurs Red seems to reflect his impulsive, free-spirited, happy-go-lucky character more than any other. The aromas radiate a casual, relaxed, pleased-to-meet-you kind of warmth, displaying strawberries dusted with a little pepper, spiced cherries, poached plums, red peppercorns, dried orange peel and hot bricks. It?s a much fresher wine than one might expect from this warm region, with bright redcurrant acidity and a suppleness to the texture that lets it glide gently across the palate. It?s a wine packed full of charisma, which won?t surprise anyone who has met the winemaker. A blend of 64% Shiraz, 26% Cinsault, 6% Grenache, 2% Mourvèdre, 2% Pinotage.
Duck is quite flavoursome and can cope with stronger flavoured wines. The Secateurs Red will match the slight gameyness of the mallard and its natural acidity will make sure that you will enjoy every mouthful. Bon Appetit!
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